As promised, here is a short report from our weekend hike to Krkonoše. I must say, I am very proud with our performance! We simply rock! We walked more than 20km every day on a quite demanding path. All this for a beer! But an excellent one!
Starting from the beginning: we took a morning bus from Černý Most to Janské Lázně ( forget about Student Agency experience, it’s more like back to the 90s trip). Lovely 3 hours later we started our hike with taking a wrong rout but, fortunately, we realized that soon enough. After a demanding first few kilometers, we stopped to have the most famous dish of Krkonoše- boruvkove knedliky!
After several more climbs and 20km more, passing by lovely villages by the lake Upa, we reached our destination on 1045 m.n.m. – Horni Mala Upa. It was quite a steep climb with short intervals of high ascends. The views were spectacular thanks to blue sky and nature blooming from every corner. We were very lucky with the weather on both days of our hike.


PIVOVAR TRAUTENBER (click) was the real reason for our hike, we tried it once before during skiing weekend in February in Černý Důl and fell in love ever since! It’s quite a young brewery, opened in 2015 serving three types of beer: ležák Trautenberk 11, polotmavý speciál Trautenberk 13 and Trautenberk 14 – APA. Occassionally they brew other types of beer as well. We tried all of them and they were all amazing! I have this theory that Trautenberk ( same as Krakonoš) have the taste of fresh water as if coming directly from mountain spring! You can really feel it in its taste! There is a restaurant in the brewery which has OK food but nothing memorable truth be told. The beer is the main star here. However, the interiors are very nice and modern and I could easily see this place in Prague being full non-stop. What I like, is the shape of the bottle in which they sell the beer, it reminds me of pine cone!

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View to Snezka
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Dolni Mala Upa

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on the way to Dolni Mala Upa
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somewhere on the way
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well deserved beeeeer
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and foood ( but not so good)
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Pivovar Trautenberk
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a bottle of Trautenberk
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over-heated Jose

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And finally 2 secret hints for those who would like to try this beer and don’t feel like walking too far: they sell it in Restaurant Café Zátiší in Kunratice ( according to the website) as well as in the most amazing potraviny ever called Napoje Bubenec(click) in Prague 6. This shop has amazing selection of beers from small Czech breweries, they even have 2 taps with drought beer which they change daily and several taps with wine.
The next day, we woke up early, have breakfast and head back to Janské Lázně taking different rout on the Polish-Czech border. The rout was lovely but very empty, not a single bouda for many kilometers! When we finally get to Rýchorská bouda we were very tired as it was very hot that day. After having some nice Rychorský blbeček, we continue our hike down ( and up sometimes) to make it on time to Janské Lázně for our bus to Prague. We made it on time even to grab an ice-cream! The bus back was definitely not a memorable experience – I may only say – do book your tickets in advance when plan to take any of these AmsBus buses. Otherwise you may end up standing for 3hours.

Our rout: click

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